At BaselWorld this year, Oris will be introducing its new Jumping Hour to the Artelier collection, its series of more elegant and dressy models under its Culture lineup. Much of the brand’s bolder dive watches tend to overshadow the more understated Arterlier line, but the Jumping Hour is certainly something innovative from the brand, and collectors should take notice of the watch not only for its visual characteristics but for its technical ones.
The dial features a dual track design with the minutes and small seconds tracks intersecting. The small seconds subdial entirely replaces the 6 o’clock hour marker, and from there the batons extend like rays from the minutes dial and grow shorter as they reach 12 o’clock where the aperture for the jumping hour disc rests. It’s an updated and pleasing look, its horizontal symmetry maintaining balance in the design while vertically abandoning that balance to add contemporary attitude to the aesthetic. A double-domed anti-reflective sapphire lens protects the dial. If I had one complaint about the face it would be how oversized the “SWISS MADE” is appears on the dial. It seems a larger font size than “AUTOMATIC” written beneath the logo and that might be a bit too proud.
Oris’s Jumping Hour features a 40mm stainless steel case, the same case you would see on any Artelier, with a display back that shows off the caliber 917. This jump hour movement uses Selitta’s SW-300 as a base caliber, which is nearly a direct clone of ETA-2892, which is ETA’s more premium three-handed movement used in COSC-certified watches like the Omega Seamaster. It has 50m water resistance and comes on a brown calf-skin leather strap with a crocodile pattern and a world-class push-button deployant clasp. Honestly, real crocodile or alligator would have been a much better choice, but other watches in the Artelier line unfortunately share the same strap. While comfortable, it just seems out of place on an elegant watch with a significantly modified movement and a price tag of 4,100 CHF (about $4,600 at the time of writing). oris.ch